Interview by CYNTHIA ALTORISO
photography by DAVID CARLO

CYNTHIA ALTORISO: I met David Samuel Menkes by serendipity. I had gone to his building to visit the atelier of a neighboring bespoke tailor on his floor. When I noticed the wonderful quilted leather and studded door, I stopped in my tracks. Beyond the door was a pleasant-faced , blue-eyed and nosed-ringed man, who invited me in. To step inside David’s studio was akin to visiting Ali Baba’s cave of treasures!

There was David, at his heroic wooden work table, covered with beautiful leathers and interesting findings and tools. Behind him were steps leading to an outdoor Victorian quadrangle encompassing a secret garden unique for its exotic specimens and random classical statuary. This was only the beginning…
Appreciating my joy for his aesthetic, David pointed out the ‘walking stick corner’ which held a vast collection of wondrous vintage walking sticks, many of which I have had the good fortune to borrow for shoots.

Close by, above the wardrobe is a collection of marvelous old hats and hat boxes. Next, we moved into his bedroom with its’s centrally positioned canopy bed, draped with fine old paisley shawls.

One wall was covered in shelves holding antique sewing implements. Another wall held a vast collection of classical music covers, the many spines proudly proclaiming impressive works. And then there are the 2 drawers full of the bone button collection, the pleasure of which is to run one’s hands through. And there’s the charming vintage children’s chairs. There’s more, much more, and, after these many years of knowing David, it has become a custom for me to bring visitors to experience this creative field trip.

David’s skills are not limited to the demi monde. For a project I was doing with Amy Arbus, he made a Picasso clown suit, for a shoot with Alan Cumming he made a spy’s binocular case, and for a shoot with Ellen von Unwerth, he crafted a lovely muzzle. I also arranged for a custom-made leather jacket, with the Union Jack, for Zombie, Rod Argent. Too many to list here, David has made or lent me many cunning pieces and accessories…the random eyepatch, the leather corset, the riding crops, etc., etc.

David is an old school artisan lovingly plying his trade, making up one of New York’s living, creative treasures.
I call him ‘The Leather Master’.

DAVID SAMUEL MENKES: I am a tailor specializing in Leather. As a child I was fascinated by mother’s sewing machine, and I learned to use it at around age 14. The first piece that I can remember making was a western detailed shirt in muslin.

I grew up in North Jersey, close enough to come to NYC to see Broadway shows, and in high school was inspired by my art teacher, a former B’way chorus boy, to apply to schools that had a theater program. I went to Carnegie Mellon University and got a degree in Costume and Scenic Design. In my senior year, I came to NY and spent the next 5 years in various costume houses and doing shows off-Broadway. At the time, I was also exploring the underground leather scene and realizing there was a need for a good tailor, I decided to turn my attention exclusively to clothing these men. After building the business in a small studio on 18th St., in 1993 I moved to my current location on Fifth Ave. Because of my specialty, I am able to create a wide range of items, not just S/M related items. I have made dog muzzles, wedding dresses, a bondage hood for a six-foot diameter head of Stalin, items for fashion shoots and theatre, the gun bra and a recent jumpsuit for Lady Gaga.

In my studio, my favorite place is at the sewing machine, where I find focus and peace in creation. I keep the TV on all day, the best hour being General Hospital. I don’t travel, except to my house on Fire Island, where I spend time in the garden, fixing the house, or watching the sea.

Among my favorite things:
Tool – rotary cutter.
Color – heather green.
Music – classical.
Fragrance – wet pine trees.
Place I most want to see – Hadrian’s Villa, Rome.
Alternate career – gardener.

In Case of Fire – I would grab the scissors I have used since college. (And the computer.)