Interview with KEN BOROCHOV
“I live in a Disney movie and that’s why I’m in fashion,” Ken Borochov says, describing his career as a jewelry designer. Dolled up in a Jeremy Scott for Adidas Hibiscus-print tracksuit, pink-and-blue ruffled and gingham dress shirt, black-and-gold Lanvin sunglasses and a giant gold-and-diamond Star of David, Borochov is brazenly bringing his lifestyle and brand to the world. With Kanye West, Nicki Minaj and Lady Gaga as some of his ambassadors, it is safe to say that Mordekai’s regime has begun.
Spirit & Flesh: Growing up, did you play with your mother’s or grandmother’s jewels?
Ken Borochov: I was more into my mom’s clothes and shoes. I would try them on all the time. I’ve always been attracted to women’s wear. Every Halloween I dress as a drag queen.
I used to play with Barbies, dressing them up. My grandmother made a black tulle and green taffeta dress that I was very attracted to. The headpiece thing is new. I started two years ago as a stylist and started making them just for fun: Every time I styled a shoot there was something missing and I thought, “I need to make that.” Here in New York, fashion people don’t like crazy shit. Everything is calculated.
S&F: You’re a one-man company, from designs to PR to shipments.
KB: I had a PR company the first season but we weren’t going in the right direction. Once I left them everything started coming to me. It is empowering and exciting. It’s like sculpture.
Everything is me. I couldn’t have done this in Paris nor London; New York gives new designers a starting ground. I’ve said it is cold and calculated here, but there is still a hunger. My brand is giving New York something that was missing.
S&F: The brand is named after your father. How did Daddy Mordekai react?
KB: At first he didn’t get where it was going and I got a bit upset. But he’s really proud of it and the exposure I’ve gotten. I cherish the fact that I am following my dreams and doing what I want. I have no financial backing from my family.
S&F: You are originally from Israel but grew up in Los Angeles, lived in Paris and are now based in New York. Are these cities represented in your work?
KB: People say I am very L.A., and there is a lot of influence from Israel – we are sexy, very Mediterranean and over the top. I don’t think Mordekai is French. Paris teachers were mean to me; they said I was too tacky, too American.To them, respect came if you designed something minimal and Japanese like Yohji Yamamoto. I had to struggle to make my vision come through.
To be a designer you have to be believe in yourself. I never ask for opinions in my creative process. I have a vision. I don’t see myself as a creative person but as someone who knows how the whole thing looks.
S&F: And how does it look?
KB: When I did my Half Breed collection, I saw the girl in the horse with the wings and I got that shot. For this collection I was seeing huge lobster earrings.
My collections have evolved. The first was big feather headpieces, then I wanted to do crowns and work with spikes. My ex-PR company said, “No, spikes are over” – and no, they were not. I did cone-shaped spikes for the Queen collection and instantly Nicki Minaj’s stylist was picking up pieces. Kanye West bought one of my crowns. That’s why I don’t listen to other people. I know what time it is, whether they like it or not.
The third, neon collection from last year was inspired by Nicki Minaj and people still love it. I kept doing feathers. Cher is my life so I was inspired by ‘60s Cher. And my Rose collection was inspired by gold roses I saw at a store. The new collection is Under The Sea, whimsical and very Schiaparelliesque and inspired by The Little Mermaid. We were living in Israel when it came out and my mom took us to see it twice.
S&F: What is your ultimate goal?
KB: To be a head designer of a big brand.
S&F: Which one?
KB: Versace.
S&F: Why?
KB: Because Versace is everything in the world.
S&F: Do you remember your first fashion impressions?
KB: Madonna was a big part of my childhood. I remember watching the “Blonde Ambition” tour on TV and being blown away. In my teens I was blown away by John Galliano. His Cleopatra collection changed my life. I want to meet him and say, “I forgive you because you are a genius.” There are two schools, McQueen and Galliano, and I am definitely from the latter. I want to work for him – or have him work for me.
[laughs]
About Author:
Miguel Figueroa is a writer and editor based in Brooklyn. He’s the Senior Editor of Candy Magazine, Fanzine137 & EY! Magateen as well as a frequent contributor to V, Spanish V, Pin-Up and Apartamento magazine. When he’s not busy mid-writing marathons you can find him reading the horoscope.